Exploring New Orleans’ Unique Cemeteries

One of New Orleans’ distinct characteristics is its cemeteries. Mausoleums populate the landscapes of the city’s graveyards, encapsulating the remains of families, notable individuals, and numerous citizens. During my trip to NOLA, I had the opportunity to visit a couple of historic burial sites—St. Louis Cemetery No. 1 and Metairie Cemetery. I was in awe of the elaborate architecture and sentimental significance behind these landmarks of death.

Growing up in Los Angeles, I’ve seen more flat and upright headstones and wall graves. These make up the majority of burial styles at the cemeteries I’ve visited, although I have seen mausoleums at Hollywood Forever Cemetery. The Crescent City is a different story and is renowned for its grave sites.

Because New Orleans is situated below sea level and prone to flooding, above-ground burials are common. It’s nearly impossible to bury a corpse underground because there’s the possibility the coffins could float back to the top. Mausoleums and wall vaults were the solution to this problem during the 18th century when the city’s first burial grounds were being constructed. Taking inspiration from the architectural style of France and Spain’s graveyards, the cemeteries of NOLA have a distinct European aesthetic.

St. Louis Cemetery No. 1

While New Orleans is home to many historic necropolises, St. Louis Cemetery No. 1 is the oldest. It was established in 1789 and replaced St. Peter Street Cemetery, which was destroyed due to fires in the area the previous year. In 1975, it officially became part of the National Register of Historic Places. This landmark is only accessible to the public via tours, which I’ll elaborate on later. My stay in New Orleans happened during the last week of October, so I booked a tour on Halloween.

The property in its entirety does not occupy a large space, but I was surprised to see how many burial chambers it contains. There are more than 600 tombs organized along lengthy pathways that reminded me of small avenues. Each turn around a corner revealed another row of aged crypts.

Our tour guide was a New Orleans native named Lamie Chatelain. He led us up and down the stretched walkways regaling us with stories behind some of the graves. There was so much insightful information to absorb. One interesting fact is that there is no video recording allowed in St. Louis Cemetery No. 1, only photography. The reason is due to the 1969 movie Easy Rider, starring Jack Nicholson. It includes a scene where two guys and a couple of prostitutes end up at the cemetery on an acid trip. Nicholson wasn’t in this clip, but the backdrop made quite the impression.

The cemetery has ties to the Catholic Church and a large number of its deceased inhabitants are Catholics. So, when the pope found out about the movie, he prohibited filming and restricted access. Guided tours are the only way you can enter.

While many notable figures are buried here, there were two that stood out to me. The first is Nicolas Cage. No, he isn’t dead yet, but he’s already reserved his spot at the iconic cemetery. Instead of going with a traditional mausoleum, his burial chamber is in the shape of a pyramid that has a simple, yet powerful phrase inscribed on the outside: “Omnia Ab Uno” (All from One). The actor has a fascination with New Orleans, which is likely why he was eager to claim a place inside one of the city’s most renowned graveyards.

But, you may be wondering why he chose a pyramid. There are a few different theories. Some say it was his way of paying homage to his 2004 movie National Treasure. Others suspect that Cage has ties to the Illuminati. Whatever you believe, there’s no question that his grave will be a popular spot to visit for many years to come, before and after his death.

I dare say the most famous of all of St. Louis Cemetery’s departed inhabitants is voodoo queen Marie Laveau. I was most excited to pay my respects at her burial site. The mausoleum she lies in is also the tomb of her husband’s family, the Glapions. There is some speculation among scholars whether this is actually where her remains are kept, but there’s no concrete evidence proving otherwise. Many people leave behind trinkets in hopes that Laveau will hear their prayers. For a time, some visitors would draw triple X’s on the structure as part of an occult practice. The crypt underwent a restoration in 2014 to preserve the exterior and writing on the mausoleum is strictly prohibited.

St. Louis Cemetery No. 1 is truly a treasure and a testament to the sacredness of New Orleans’ burial traditions. Several day and night tours are offered weekly and ticket prices start at $21.25.

Metairie Cemetery

If you read my previous blog post about the Anne Rice memorial I attended, then you saw I mentioned Metairie Cemetery. While St. Louis Cemetery No. 1 is home to voodoo queen Marie Laveau, Metairie Cemetery is home to vampire queen Anne Rice. The author’s tomb was the primary reason for my visit, but I also made sure to explore the grounds.

The Rice mausoleum holds the remains of Anne and her husband Stan. Poems written by Stan Rice are inscribed on one side. The monument is absolutely regal and is situated by a stream.

Interestingly, before this site became a cemetery, it was a horse racetrack. You can observe evidence of this in the way the grounds are outlined. Many famous and notable figures are buried here. The property is huge, and you could spend hours walking up and down the paths looking at the stunning tombs. If I hadn’t been limited on time, I would’ve stayed longer. I didn’t get a chance to traverse the entire cemetery, but what I managed to see was astounding.

The architecture is exquisite and there are many elaborate styles. One mausoleum that caught my eye resembled a decaying gothic cathedral. It looked as if a vampire slept there during the day. There were also many ethereal sculptures. It’s evident that the individuals and families laid to rest here put a lot of thought into the designs of their burial chambers. It’s also no surprise that the deceased residents were wealthy. Mausoleums come with a hefty price tag, and the more ornate, the more expensive they become.

I felt so at peace as I strolled the pathways. Unlike St. Louis Cemetery No. 1, people can enter freely and explore without having to book a tour. It was quiet and birds fluttered across the stone memorials. The weather could not have been more ideal. The sun beamed, the skies were a striking azure, and a subtle breeze permeated the grounds as if the dead were whispering among themselves. I would love to return to Metairie Cemetery to spend a day just being in its presence.

Conclusion

While there are many cemeteries spread across New Orleans, the two I mentioned here are the most notorious. Also, not all cemeteries are easily accessible to the public and some have restrictions in place to reduce the risk of vandalism. St. Louis Cemetery No. 1 and Metairie Cemetery have carved a place in the mausoleum of my soul. These iconic sites remind us of the precious brevity of life and the beauty in death. They also immortalize a significant burial tradition and highlight that there are many ways to pay homage to the dead. If you plan a trip to the Crescent City, do not miss the chance to visit these historic places.     

Where to Stalk

New Orleans Cemetery No. 1 official website

Metairie Cemetery